Falklands War Britain
Reports of 14-year-old Michael Perham’s singlehanded crossing of the Atlantic sent me dipping into Jonathan Raban’s Coasting, a book he wrote after spending four years slowly circling Britain in a 32-foot ketch. His aim: to get the measure of home by putting into port as a visitor.
Raban’s penultimate chapter is headed “Voyage to the Far North”, a gentle joke on the Southerner’s habit of putting the other end of the country at the other end of the earth. He writes:
It took three weeks to reach the Humber from the Thames — about the same time as most small boats take to cross the Atlantic. This made excellent sense: it put Hull at a distance of approximately 2,400 miles from Tower Bridge, which sounds just about right.
As Raban was sailing clockwise around the coast, a fellow author from a really big country, the American Paul Theroux, was travelling in the other direction, by train and on foot. Their friendship, already strained, wasn’t helped when each discovered what the other was planning, but they met anyway, in Brighton. Here are the two literary heavyweights trading exploratory jabs.
Theroux in The Kingdom by the Sea (Chapter 4):
It was strange to see a typewriter and a TV set on board, but that was the sort of boat it was, very comfy and literary, with bookshelves and curios.
“This must be your log,” I said, glancing down. The entries were sketchy (“… light rain, wind E S E…”) — nothing very literary here, no dialogue, no exclamation marks.
He said, “I keep planning to make notes, but I never seem to get round to it. What about you?”
“I fiddle around,” I said. It was a lie. I did nothing but make notes…
Raban in Coasting (Chapter 5):
It took Paul less than five minutes to sum up the boat…
“Yeah,” he said, “it’s kind of… tubby and… bookish.”
The phrase rattled me. I rather thought that somewhere I had written it down myself.
“You making a lot of notes?”
“No,” I lied. “I seem too busy with things like weather and navigation to notice anything on land…”
Their trips coincided with the Falklands War, of which Raban proves the more reliable (secondhand) reporter.
Theroux writes:
“She put my plate of bacon and eggs in front of me and went to another table and smoked and drank her tea and read her Sun. The headline was SUNK! It referred to the General Belgrano and the 1200 dead men. It was the first of many gloating headlines.
“SUNK” as Raban records, was actually the headline of the Express, which “had an honourable front page”. The Sun’s headline was “GOTCHA!”
With the 25th anniversary of the war approaching, both books — worth rereading at any time — seem particularly poignant.



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