I hate guided tours, those sheepish outings on which you trail through streets following a barking man or woman waving a flag. A tour with a guide is a different thing altogether.

I’ve just returned from 10 days in Nicaragua, where I spent most of my waking hours in the company of a man named Juan Carlos Mendosa. He was the perfect ambassador for his country: sharp-eyed, informed, entertaining, and with that knack of knowing when to sketch in background and when to let the place speak for itself.

Ours was a viaje de relampago — a lightning tour — taking in Managua, the little-visited coffee town of Jinotega, the Pacific coast, the colonial cities of León and Granada, the wildlife reserves of the Río San Juan and, finally, the Solentiname islands, renowned for their community of naïve painters.

I’ve come back with two books full of notes, 300 pictures and a strong feeling that I won’t be up to doing the country justice when I come to write about it for the Telegraph. But I’ll try. If you’re ever heading to Nicaragua, book a little time with Juan Carlos. You’ll find him at carelitours.com.